19 / 36
SAHPA 2016 Year Book Page 19
Important Factors
I put no relevance in winning short distance races where the majority of pigeons return in one
mob regardless if you win or not. To win the tougher races not influenced by loft position or
wind direction the most important ingredient is definitely breeding and prior race
performance.
I look for well bred pigeons that consistently return early from training and racing and are
eager to loft fly without flagging. If a bird has all these qualities at once and is not over raced
then I think you can safely judge its form.
I use to clean regularly and top the floors with creek sand but due to family and work have
not done so for a number of years now. Definitely deep litter for about the last six years.
I hope to avoid those periods where results are below standard.
No importance give to eye-sign or wing theory but the wind is definitely an influence.
No medications used but birds are wormed once before racing begins. Drug testing is not a
concern.
Advice
Acquire proven birds from your local area, race them and breed from only the best
performers. Do not start with birds of low quality and think you will perform consistently.
The imported birds may be able to compete in the major cities but definitely not in Broken
Hill.
Creating a family is ongoing and only achievable through help from Trevor Grillett who has
quality long distance pigeons which are very similar bloodlines to my family.
In Broken Hill I believe we should race all directions possible not just west and east.
Feeding and Medications
Feed is very basic this year, three wheat, one peas, one lentils, half milo. Increased the peas
as the distances increased. I do all the mixing. Never tried pellets.
Racing birds fed by hand as much as they want with anything left removed shortly
afterwards. Stock birds fed by hopper. Young birds fed only wheat until about four weeks
before training begins.
For the longer rages I increase the protein. There is usually 20 pc peas but increase to 40 pc
for long races.
Yes my birds have grit available at all times. No small seed is fed. No supplements are used.
No barley. Occasionally used multi vitamins added to the drinking water. Birds are not
medicated after a race.
I do use
Raspberry Essence Mix
I don’t have any secrets but if I did they would not be secrets as I would share them.
Breeding
Only breed from top quality performers and blood lines that have proven themselves in your
local environment. Do not keep a large amount of stock birds or large teams of racers.
I have lent a number of my birds to a current member this coming season to breed from and I
hope they perform well for him.
I keep only 12 pair of stock birds, but will breed at least one round from the remaining race
birds as they are all related closely to my stock birds. Birds are not put into stock unless they
are proven.
The things I consider when pairing is performance and breeding. Are they far enough apart in
parentage yet close enough to maintain performance. I have previously put a bird straight into
stock but now will only introduce birds that have performed at distance for me.
I certainly try to pair winners to winners as well as maintaining my family. I look at the
pedigree more than the confirmation of the pigeon.
I introduce pigeons that have performed and mate to my family. The introduced bird is then
usually removed and all the youngsters are raced and if any of these youngsters perform
themselves then they are introduced on a permanent basis.